A hidden entry point and a food source. Let’s cut through the myths.
Myth 1: “Termite-proof plywood exists”
No plywood is magically termite-proof forever. What exists is: better glue/processing (makes it harder) chemical treatment (kills/repels) good site practices (prevention) Termite protection is a system, not a single purchase.
Myth 2: “If it’s branded plywood, termites won’t touch it”
Brand helps quality. It doesn’t block termites from entering your home through: walls floor cracks plumbing ducts false ceiling gaps If termites are in the building, they will explore. Where termites usually start (real life) bed back panels near damp walls kitchen base cabinets wooden door frames touching damp floors wardrobes attached to bathroom walls
What chemical treatment actually does Anti-termite treatments generally work in two ways:
Soil/barrier treatment (pre-construction or external)
- Wood treatment (surface application / pressure treatment depending on product) The best protection starts before interiors are installed: treating floor-wall junctions treating ducts and plumbing gaps treating sites before laying skirting
Practical termite protection checklist (that works)
- Do a basic site treatment before interiors Even in an existing home, do a perimeter / junction treatment.
- Keep plywood off the floor Termites love floor contact zones.
Use: PVC legs stone base skirting that lifts board edges - Seal all exposed edges and holes Raw edges invite moisture; moisture invites termites.
- Fix leaks immediately Termites thrive where dampness exists.
- Inspect once a year (especially before monsoon) Look for: powdery wood dust (frass) hollow sound on tapping bubbling laminate near edges tiny mud lines in corners
If you suspect termites in furniture Don’t panic and rip everything out. Do this first:
- Identify the source (wall, floor, or furniture)
- Get a targeted treatment done
Replace only the most damaged sections if needed
